A Brief Introduction:
For many years, the Kowloon Walled City was infamous for being one of the most densely populated places on Earth. With more than 33,000 people living within its 2.7-hectare confines, the enclave is one of the most iconic and possibly most symbolic microcosms of Hong Kong’s history. Nothing exemplified post-war colonial Hong Kong quite like the Walled City, not only in terms of structure and density but also in terms of the duality of crime and peace. Colloquially known as the "City of Darkness", the City was rampant with triad gangs, brothels, drugs and unlicensed businesses. But despite the horrid living conditions and constant violence, former residents still hold fond memories of their old home. What made such an ostensibly unpleasant location so alluring? Why did it attract so many criminals? In this post, I attempt to answer these questions whilst conveying the true cultural and historical significance of the Kowloon Walled City.
History - The rise of the Walled City:
The Walled City first began as a trading outpost to manage the trade of salt back in the Song Dynasty of China. After a long period of historical insignificance, the Walled City became a Chinese garrison and fort to monitor the movement of British troops after the ceding of Hong Kong Island to Britain as a result of the Treaty of Nanjing to end the first Opium War. As Britain furthered their conquest, Hong Kong ceded further parts of Kowloon to the British - but with one exception: the Kowloon Walled City. The City was allowed to remain under Chinese rule so long as they were not interfering with the business of the British.
This was the status quo until 1899, when the British attacked the Walled City under the suspicion that revolutionaries were prevalent in the area. By the time they arrived, all had escaped. In the years that followed, the city slowly deteriorated, lacking administrative control and clear governance. In 1912, the British would gain control of the city, although they would not utilise it in the years that followed. Post World War 2, China would declare its jurisdiction over the area. An influx of refugees and immigrants from mainland China sought refuge in the Walled City, increasing its population rapidly.
The Walled City’s historical turning point would occur in 1948. On January 5th, the Public Works Department mandated the clearing of the refugees in the Walled City, removing their squatters and demolishing their slum housing. However, within a week, the city would be rebuilt. It was obvious that the refugees would not go down without a fight. When police intervened, a riot broke out. Amid the rising pressure and conflict, the eviction was halted and the government removed their influence from the city, setting ablaze an era of self-governance and autonomy.
Why was it so popular?
This laissez-faire approach from both the British and Chinese governments attracted criminals immediately to the city. Sir Alexander Grantham, Governor of Hong Kong from 1947 to 1957, conveyed this sentiment the best, expressing that the city was “a cesspool of iniquity, with heroin divans, brothels and everything unsavoury.” The city was outside the confines of law - there was no tax, regulation of businesses or police presence. It was unsurprising that criminals from all over the globe came to the Kowloon Walled City, a hotbed of organised crime and drug trade then, to live. Naturally, the city was self-governed through the influence of the triads that dominated the area, providing a sense of order that kept everything in check.
Normality:
What makes the Walled City so intriguing and alluring was the dichotomy of crime and normality that coexisted in its confines. While the city will be remembered for its crime and violence, for those that lived there, it will always be defined by homeliness and joy. With everybody living so intimately and close with each other, a sense of community was fostered. Despite its rough and depraved image, the City was home to the 33,000 that lived there. Schools, hospitals, supermarkets and entertainment all existed in the city. Students and children would frequently go to the rooftops to study and play. Life in the city was also cheaper than elsewhere, since the unlicensed professionals that provided the majority of services in the city could not afford to offer high prices. Ultimately, despite the situation around them, the citizens of the walled city still managed to live a fruitful and enjoyable life.
The Architecture:
The streets and alleyways of Kowloon Walled City are infamously narrow, the majority of which were barely wider than 6 feet and largely uncomfortable to walk through. Almost all buildings were 10 stories tall, with architects opting to utilise vertical height to compensate for the limited amount of land present, a feature of Hong Kong architecture that remains prominent even today. However, due to the presence of the Kai-Tak Airport, buildings could not exceed 14 stories. The buildings were also clustered and densely packed, leading to barely any light exposure from higher levels to the street level. As time went on, the blocks of the city slowly began to merge together, straying away from a collection of clustered buildings to one solid block that contained everything. While it was by no means glamorous, perhaps the allure of the Walled City can be accredited to its architectural design. After all, the intimate relationships families shared with one another could have only been achieved through the closeness in which they lived.
Present Day Kowloon Walled City
Despite the waning crime rates, in 1987, the two governments agreed to demolish the walled city. Over the next few years, HK$ 2.7 billion would be distributed to the relocated 33,000 residents. However, this would not quell the inner sadness and anger that many residents still feel. Many residents continued their protest years after the demolition began and many had to be forcibly evicted from their property. Perhaps this is a testament to just how special the Walled City was, that even with rampant crime and poor living conditions, residents were still reluctant to depart from this place they called home. What now occupies the space is the Kowloon Walled City Park, a memorial to the sprawling city that once stood on its land. The Yamen is the only building that remains of the Walled City, but despite this, the memories made in the City will be etched forever in the minds of those who experienced it.
https://theculturetrip.com/asia/china/hong-kong/articles/history-of-kowloon-walled-city-in-1-minute/
Writing: Eric Wang
Editing: Angela Chan
Graphics: Holly Liu
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